Folding Down To Stand - So You Think It's Easy?

Most of my exercise programs incorporate some variation of the "folding down to stand" (DS). In fact, my first session with a new student will always cover the basics of the DS. The owners may be asking why I would include such a simple exercise in a fitness program.

Dogs lie down to rest. How do dogs lie down? As they grow up, they will learn how to move their bodies efficiently, but some dogs are lacking muscle strength and compensate. Examples: A puppy that is still developing, a poorly conditioned adult (lack of exercise), a dog with a history of an injury, or a dog that is cooped up in a too small crate for hours every day. These dogs will learn to move in ways that makes it easier for them, but not strengthen them. When we take a closer look at how a dog lies down from a stand, we will see that many will shift their weight back first, then sometimes plop onto one side of their bottom and then slowly walk their front legs forward into a down. The core muscles, as well as other stabilizing muscles, do close to no work. It's easy to let gravity do the job! Dogs are just like us. If their muscles are weak, their posture suffers. How many times have you found yourself slouching in a chair? Well, you shouldn't be sitting anyway!

Let's look at what a balanced stand posture should look like. It is the starting position of the exercise I am discussing. It is also how a dog should be able to stand normally and naturally throughout the day. If the dog is not in a balanced stand before laying down, chances are that the following down position will also be unbalanced.

Balanced stand posture:

• Hocks should be perpendicular to the ground

• Front legs should be perpendicular to the ground

• Straight topline (there are breed differences)

• Feet should be shoulder/hip distance apart

• Neutral head position

Why do we want to teach a dog a balanced stand?

• Strengthens core muscles

• Strengthens rear and front limb muscles eccentrically (fighting gravity)

• Increases general body awareness and improves balance

• Starting posture for many conditioning exercises (including folding DS discussed here)

Should be simple, right? How long can your dog stand balanced without moving its feet? This is a good test for general core strength. Observe your dog's stand posture at home, take photos and videos and see how he/she positions the legs. Some dogs will keep the hips flexed cranially and "tucked under", creating a "roached" rear, leading to a poor topline, which in turn causes tension in the lumbar and sacral area. Not being able to place the feet/legs into a balanced stand posture is a sign of poor core strength, or there is an underlying cause like orthopedic, neurologic or muscular problems, which should be addressed by a veterinarian. Here we are talking about a normal, healthy dog.

The following video shows a progression of how to train your dog to stand in a balanced posture. The simplest way to achieve this is by teaching them foot targeting. The two front feet end up on one target and the two rear feet on another, until a "square" stand is achieved.

In the video, you can see Stewie come towards me in a straight line and then place his feet on the two target platforms. You can use various props for this, for example, 2x4s or other pads that are non slip and that are not too big or too small (should easily fit feet and a couple of extra inches). You can also use cones or create other "channels" for them to pass through in a straight line and then remove these after your dog knows what I call "Four on Two".

Foot targeting ("Four on two" platforms)

Key points for successful training of a balanced stand:

• Train in a straight forward motion towards you with reward at a neutral head height.

• If reward is delivered too high above head, the dog may sit. If too low, dog may lay down.

• Highly mark and reward the moment feet move onto the platforms (clicker works great!)

• Throw "reset" cookie behind the dog (add cue for this like "get it" or "toss"), for a straight approach and quick successions.

• Duration comes later. Focus first on good timing of mark and reward and toss reset cookie.

• Focus increasingly on good alignment (vertical hocks and forelimbs). Make sure the targets are at the right distance from each other, so a balanced stand can be achieved.

• Advance to platforms just big enough for feet to comfortably fit onto.

• Add cue ("four", "plank", "bridge"...)

• Vary your position slightly for proofing

• Walk around dog for proofing (this is also a great exercise as they have to use lateral core muscles)

• Keep it happy and keep sessions short

Once your pup has mastered an effortless balanced stand - trust me, it won't take long -, you can progress to teaching a folding DS.

Ideally, use 1" thick, or less, foot targets. I prefer starting with slightly bigger targets that allow their elbows and hocks to rest comfortably during the down position. If you notice that your dog's elbows or hocks end up "wide" in the down position, add a 2-3" plank underneath the foot targets that is just wide enough to support their elbows and hocks and long enough for them to be able to down with an additional 1-2 inches in front of feet (depending on size of dog). It will teach them to keep their rear hocks/stifles and elbows tight against their body for a more balanced and supported down position.

Key points for successful training of a folding Down Stand

• Position yourself in front of your dog with your hands (and cookie) near your dog's muzzle, which should be at a horizontal position.

• Lean toward your dog and motion slightly downward and give cue "down". Your dog will feel "body pressure" and shift weight back and down, hopefully without much moving of feet. Placement of reward is very important here and putting pressure horizontally towards dog, rather than downward, will help.

• Front and rear limbs should move smoothly down and up simultaneously.

• Frequently, dogs will lower their front first (like a bow), due to their center of gravity being greater in the front end, but also to resist engagement of their core muscles and flexion of their stifles in the eccentric phase, which can be challenging at first.

• If feet move out of position, throw a "reset" cookie and start over.

• Watch for signs of fatigue: More "bow" behavior, moving feet a lot, taking cookies harder, "plopping" down onto floor/plank. Post workout soreness is more common due to the down phase (more eccentric muscle work), so it's important to recognize subtle signs of fatigue (see above)

• Placement of reward of "Down to Stand" should be opposite of "Stand to Down" by leaning away from dog and bringing hands back up towards handler and cueing "Stand".

Below are various versions of the DS. Be creative, but make sure that your dog performs the DS effortless on stable surfaces first, before advancing to inflatable equipment.

(Note that Rosi has a mild degree of lordosis, which is a downward curve of spine. It is undesirable, but an even greater reason to strengthen her core!)

Down Stands with thin platforms (Beginner/Intermediate)

Down Stands on Cato Plank and two thin foot targets (Beginner/Intermediate) A narrow plank like this assures that feet, hocks or elbows don't end up wide.

Down Stands on two Fitbones (Advanced - very challenging)

Down Stands on decline Cato Board with two foot targets (Intermediate). This version increases work for the front end due to greater weight shift to front. Yoga mats, cut to size, work well as foot targets for DS, too.

Down Stands on Fitbones (Advanced) - The unstable surface adds a proprioceptive and balancing challenge.

DS at incline on Cato Board with front foot target. It is a Beginner to Intermediate level. More weight is shifted to the rear. The downward movement is often easier for the dog, as more gravity helps them flex the stifles, which is difficult for some dogs, since dogs carry most of their weight in the front.

Down Stands without any equipment. It's harder than it looks! Train it with foot targets and planks first, if your pup can't do this.

What is happening to the dog's muscles during the DS? So much!

Down movement (eccentric phase/overcoming gravity):

• The stabilizing muscles have to resist gravity to control the descent and prevent the body from collapsing.

• Front limb: There are many stabilizing muscles working together, for example, the triceps is loaded and lengthens eccentrically to keep the descent controlled. Other muscles involved in flexion of the joints are the infra-, and supraspinatus (shoulder), biceps brachii, brachialis (elbow) and digital/carpal muscles.

• Rear limb: The hamstrings (semimembranosus, semitendinosus, biceps femoris) eccentrically contract (lengthen), while the quadriceps muscles (vastus lateralis, vastus medialis, vastus intermedius, rectus femoris) and sartorius concentrically contract (shorten) as the hips and stifles flex in a controlled descent.  The gastrocnemius, tibial muscle and digital/tarsal muscles also contribute to controlling the descent.

• Core muscles (abdominal, pectoral and spinal muscles, including the iliopsoas) will work mostly in an isometric and stabilizing fashion in both the down and stand movement. The glutes (hip muscles) are actively engaged during the entire DS movement, especially in the upward phase.

Upward movement (concentric phase/resisting gravity):

• Front limb: The roles reverse and the triceps contracts concentrically/shortens, when infraspinatus/supraspinatus, biceps brachii, brachialis load eccentrically/lengthen.

• Rear limb: The quadriceps and hamstring muscles must then work upwards against gravity, extend the stifles and bring the hip back into "neutral". They will reverse roles and hamstring muscles contract concentrically, while the quadriceps contract eccentrically/lengthen, for a powerful return to a balanced stand.

If you would like to learn more about this or other exercises for your dog, feel free to contact me at petrav7369@gmail.com

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