Folding Down To Stand - So You Think It's Easy?

Most of my exercise programs incorporate some variation of the "folding down to stand" (DS). In fact, my first session with a new student will always cover the basics of the DS. The owners may be asking why I would include such a simple exercise in a fitness program.

Dogs lie down to rest. How do dogs lie down? As they grow up, they will learn how to move their bodies efficiently, but some dogs are lacking muscle strength and compensate. Examples: A puppy that is still developing, a poorly conditioned adult (lack of exercise), a dog with a history of an injury, or a dog that is cooped up in a too small crate for hours every day. These dogs will learn to move in ways that makes it easier for them, but not strengthen them. When we take a closer look at how a dog lies down from a stand, we will see that many will shift their weight back first, then sometimes plop onto one side of their bottom and then slowly walk their front legs forward into a down. The core muscles, as well as other stabilizing muscles, do close to no work. It's easy to let gravity do the job! Dogs are just like us. If their muscles are weak, their posture suffers. How many times have you found yourself slouching in a chair? Well, you shouldn't be sitting anyway!

Let's look at what a balanced stand posture should look like. It is the starting position of the exercise I am discussing. It is also how a dog should be able to stand normally and naturally throughout the day. If the dog is not in a balanced stand before laying down, chances are that the following down position will also be unbalanced.

Balanced stand posture:

• Hocks should be perpendicular to the ground

• Front legs should be perpendicular to the ground

• Straight topline (there are breed differences)

• Feet should be shoulder/hip distance apart

• Neutral head position

Why do we want to teach a dog a balanced stand?

• Strengthens core muscles

• Strengthens rear and front limb muscles eccentrically (fighting gravity)

• Increases general body awareness and improves balance

• Starting posture for many conditioning exercises (including folding DS discussed here)

Should be simple, right? How long can your dog stand balanced without moving its feet? This is a good test for general core strength. Observe your dog's stand posture at home, take photos and videos and see how he/she positions the legs. Some dogs will keep the hips flexed cranially and "tucked under", creating a "roached" rear, leading to a poor topline, which in turn causes tension in the lumbar and sacral area. Not being able to place the feet/legs into a balanced stand posture is a sign of poor core strength, or there is an underlying cause like orthopedic, neurologic or muscular problems, which should be addressed by a veterinarian. Here we are talking about a normal, healthy dog.

The following video shows a progression of how to train your dog to stand in a balanced posture. The simplest way to achieve this is by teaching them foot targeting. The two front feet end up on one target and the two rear feet on another, until a "square" stand is achieved.

In the video, you can see Stewie come towards me in a straight line and then place his feet on the two target platforms. You can use various props for this, for example, 2x4s or other pads that are non slip and that are not too big or too small (should easily fit feet and a couple of extra inches). You can also use cones or create other "channels" for them to pass through in a straight line and then remove these after your dog knows what I call "Four on Two".

Foot targeting ("Four on two" platforms)

Key points for successful training of a balanced stand:

• Train in a straight forward motion towards you with reward at a neutral head height.

• If reward is delivered too high above head, the dog may sit. If too low, dog may lay down.

• Highly mark and reward the moment feet move onto the platforms (clicker works great!)

• Throw "reset" cookie behind the dog (add cue for this like "get it" or "toss"), for a straight approach and quick successions.

• Duration comes later. Focus first on good timing of mark and reward and toss reset cookie.

• Focus increasingly on good alignment (vertical hocks and forelimbs). Make sure the targets are at the right distance from each other, so a balanced stand can be achieved.

• Advance to platforms just big enough for feet to comfortably fit onto.

• Add cue ("four", "plank", "bridge"...)

• Vary your position slightly for proofing

• Walk around dog for proofing (this is also a great exercise as they have to use lateral core muscles)

• Keep it happy and keep sessions short

Once your pup has mastered an effortless balanced stand - trust me, it won't take long -, you can progress to teaching a folding DS.

Ideally, use 1" thick, or less, foot targets. I prefer starting with slightly bigger targets that allow their elbows and hocks to rest comfortably during the down position. If you notice that your dog's elbows or hocks end up "wide" in the down position, add a 2-3" plank underneath the foot targets that is just wide enough to support their elbows and hocks and long enough for them to be able to down with an additional 1-2 inches in front of feet (depending on size of dog). It will teach them to keep their rear hocks/stifles and elbows tight against their body for a more balanced and supported down position.

Key points for successful training of a folding Down Stand

• Position yourself in front of your dog with your hands (and cookie) near your dog's muzzle, which should be at a horizontal position.

• Lean toward your dog and motion slightly downward and give cue "down". Your dog will feel "body pressure" and shift weight back and down, hopefully without much moving of feet. Placement of reward is very important here and putting pressure horizontally towards dog, rather than downward, will help.

• Front and rear limbs should move smoothly down and up simultaneously.

• Frequently, dogs will lower their front first (like a bow), due to their center of gravity being greater in the front end, but also to resist engagement of their core muscles and flexion of their stifles in the eccentric phase, which can be challenging at first.

• If feet move out of position, throw a "reset" cookie and start over.

• Watch for signs of fatigue: More "bow" behavior, moving feet a lot, taking cookies harder, "plopping" down onto floor/plank. Post workout soreness is more common due to the down phase (more eccentric muscle work), so it's important to recognize subtle signs of fatigue (see above)

• Placement of reward of "Down to Stand" should be opposite of "Stand to Down" by leaning away from dog and bringing hands back up towards handler and cueing "Stand".

Below are various versions of the DS. Be creative, but make sure that your dog performs the DS effortless on stable surfaces first, before advancing to inflatable equipment.

(Note that Rosi has a mild degree of lordosis, which is a downward curve of spine. It is undesirable, but an even greater reason to strengthen her core!)

Down Stands with thin platforms (Beginner/Intermediate)

Down Stands on Cato Plank and two thin foot targets (Beginner/Intermediate) A narrow plank like this assures that feet, hocks or elbows don't end up wide.

Down Stands on two Fitbones (Advanced - very challenging)

Down Stands on decline Cato Board with two foot targets (Intermediate). This version increases work for the front end due to greater weight shift to front. Yoga mats, cut to size, work well as foot targets for DS, too.

Down Stands on Fitbones (Advanced) - The unstable surface adds a proprioceptive and balancing challenge.

DS at incline on Cato Board with front foot target. It is a Beginner to Intermediate level. More weight is shifted to the rear. The downward movement is often easier for the dog, as more gravity helps them flex the stifles, which is difficult for some dogs, since dogs carry most of their weight in the front.

Down Stands without any equipment. It's harder than it looks! Train it with foot targets and planks first, if your pup can't do this.

What is happening to the dog's muscles during the DS? So much!

Down movement (eccentric phase/overcoming gravity):

• The stabilizing muscles have to resist gravity to control the descent and prevent the body from collapsing.

• Front limb: There are many stabilizing muscles working together, for example, the triceps is loaded and lengthens eccentrically to keep the descent controlled. Other muscles involved in flexion of the joints are the infra-, and supraspinatus (shoulder), biceps brachii, brachialis (elbow) and digital/carpal muscles.

• Rear limb: The hamstrings (semimembranosus, semitendinosus, biceps femoris) eccentrically contract (lengthen), while the quadriceps muscles (vastus lateralis, vastus medialis, vastus intermedius, rectus femoris) and sartorius concentrically contract (shorten) as the hips and stifles flex in a controlled descent.  The gastrocnemius, tibial muscle and digital/tarsal muscles also contribute to controlling the descent.

• Core muscles (abdominal, pectoral and spinal muscles, including the iliopsoas) will work mostly in an isometric and stabilizing fashion in both the down and stand movement. The glutes (hip muscles) are actively engaged during the entire DS movement, especially in the upward phase.

Upward movement (concentric phase/resisting gravity):

• Front limb: The roles reverse and the triceps contracts concentrically/shortens, when infraspinatus/supraspinatus, biceps brachii, brachialis load eccentrically/lengthen.

• Rear limb: The quadriceps and hamstring muscles must then work upwards against gravity, extend the stifles and bring the hip back into "neutral". They will reverse roles and hamstring muscles contract concentrically, while the quadriceps contract eccentrically/lengthen, for a powerful return to a balanced stand.

If you would like to learn more about this or other exercises for your dog, feel free to contact me at petrav7369@gmail.com

Facebook

"Dig" as an example of Shaping

My favorite part of dog training has always been shaping a new behavior or trick. There is nothing cuter to me than watching a dog think, problem solve and the exhilarating "lightbulb moment".

There are so many things to "shape"!

Of course, there are lots of funny tricks you can shape, like hiding in a suitcase, stacking toy rings or fetching a tissue when you sneeze.

Shaping is also frequently used in canine fitness, for example, for teaching a behavior as simple as stepping onto a prop. Yes, you can lure some of these behaviors, but generally, they don't learn as quickly. It's like giving them a cookie, but they don't know why they got it. Luring can also cause a degree of distrust, if for some reason the dog is wary of the behavior you're trying to achieve. In shaping, it's always the dog's choice.

Shaping involves teaching your dog a final behavior by rewarding approximations towards that particular behavior. As many of you know, I love clicker training and although you could say "yes" or another quick marker word, the clicker is always "neutral", always the same, crisp and quick sound, which makes it very clear for the dog and thus speeds up the learning process. Once they know the behavior, you can always use your marker word instead.

So many fitness exercises can be shaped, for example pivoting rear legs while the dog stands with front legs on a bowl. You would click/reward when the dog moves its rear sideways even the slightest bit...

Targeting of nose, chin and paws toward objects or your hands are extremely valuable tools for achieving good form in canine fitness exercises, and these behaviors are also all shaped.

Another exercise that can be shaped very easily and is great for strengthening carpal and digital flexors, is teaching dogs to dig/scratch. No, it will not make your dog dig up the backyard.

The carpus is a highly complex joint and is often involved in sports injuries. It is also one of the most difficult to treat. Dogs that land with high impact on their front legs are at risk of carpal flexor/extensor tendon strains (hyperextension) or even ligament sprains, so it is important not to forget to include these exercises in a fitness plan.

Here is Rosi learning to "dig" by shaping. This can also turn into a useful "trick" for dogs that don't like their nails trimmed, as they scratch on a sandpaper/grit covered board. They even sell these boards online, but you can easily make one yourself.

This video is 2 min long and it gets the point across for those of you that are just learning about Shaping. I made some notes below about each step of the learning process.

https://youtu.be/3qpFG9vJRGM

• In the first part of the video, I don't say anything and have the rag between me and her, and I click and reward any interaction with the rag. To speed up the process, you could put a treat under the rag to activate the natural dig behavior a dog would use to uncover something.

• Then I reward when she puts her foot on the rag and starts scratching at it. At one point, I accidentally click when her nose targets the rag, so that stuck with her for a little while, but I was able to extinguish the behavior by highly rewarding the digs only.

• To advance the exercise, I placed the rag over the board. With all the platform work we have been doing, she generalized and offered other behaviors - she wasn't quite sure what to do with that new situation. I just ignore it and wait for a few seconds to see if she figures it out. Out of slight frustration, she defaulted to a cute little "whisper trick" that she loves. I ignored it, although it made me giggle inside. Smiling at a dog can act as a reward, so you sometimes have to hide your feelings!

• If for some reason she had shown more frustration or had disengaged, I would have taken it a step back and remove the board or put another treat between the board and the rag. Don't give up on your dog, instead try something different, keep them engaged and and don't let them have negative feelings about what you are trying to teach them.

• In the next session, after she understands that digging is the correct behavior, I add the cue "dig, dig".

• Because she already knows individual foot targeting and she's not a naturally "crazy" digger like my Jack Russell, I decided to add left and right alternating digs. "One" means lift right front, and "Two" means her left front.

• With her weight shifting to the rear (elevated front), this exercise is demanding on the rear end stabilizers and core. When she raises her right front to scratch, the grounded left front, her core muscles and her right rear leg stabilizers are working hard at keeping her balanced. Vice versa for when she lifts her left front.

• In the next session I will reward longer and harder "digs" as my main goal is carpal strengthening.

The next video is just a little extra for you and it shows how you can build one shaped behavior onto another. I shaped this exercise for Rosi a while ago, to strengthen her shoulders and elbow flexors (her front always needs help). She has now learned to alternate legs after every reward without me saying anything (except my marker word). Interestingly, this trick, which I call "chicken", started when she was a puppy and was very finicky about eating her food. She used to eat with the bowl on the floor. I shaped the trick so that once her bowl was empty and she put a foot into the bowl, she would get a piece of chicken (or other yummies that were higher value than her kibble). She started eating like a champ, cause she knew what the end behavior and resulting reward was, and that if she ate faster, she would get the reward sooner.

Once she started eating from elevated bowls, she continued to put her paw into it, and it turned into a workout, especially when I taught her to alternate legs. You all are thinking why she would wait to put her paw into the bowl until she was done eating? Most dogs wouldn't put their paw into a bowl filled with their food!

https://youtu.be/rqr48-MHSmw

Feel free to post your fun experiences with shaping and/or post a video.

Thanks for your interest!

Best, Petra

Cavaletti - Not just for horses!

I am a little bit of a canine gait freak, and I always love watching dogs with healthy and fluid motion.  The effortless elegance gives me goosebumps, especially when watching in slow motion!

This is one of the reasons I enjoy Cavaletti work as part of Canine Fitness. It can really bring out the best in your dog’s gait.  It is a “multi purpose” exercise and considered a cardio workout as well as a strengthening and spinal “lengthening” tool. Additionally, it improves front and rear end proprioception.  The dog has to trot between poles, and the core muscles have to engage to carry the trunk over the poles, while the front and rear limbs have to extend to a degree that may be greater than during an average trot on your daily leash walk (depending on the distance between the poles).  This is a big workout! It may also help dogs that do a lot of "pacing", which is a gait where front and hind limb of the same side move forward at the same time. This gait is not as effective at strengthening the core as is a trot or gallop. I call it the "lazy walk". Pacing may be normal for dogs at certain speeds, but there is cause for concern if your dog doesn't typically pace and suddenly paces a lot. Although Rosi's natural stride is a trot, she tends to pace when we walk together with her on leash (I'm too slow for her!). I thought it would be a nice challenge to try to teach her to go from a pace into a trot on cue, and it worked! The video is mostly to show you what pacing looks like, but it's also interesting to see how she consciously has to shift her legs to move into a trot.

Depending on the structure of the dog, the pole to pole distance may vary.  You will find many sources out there that say to use the dog’s height from the ground to the withers, but that is just a starting guide.  I have worked with several dogs, and most of them need an adjustment in the pole to pole distance.  A dog’s natural stride length and fitness level has to be taken into consideration. Some dogs and certain breeds may not be able to extend/flex the limbs as much.  My dog Rosi is a good example of not having the greatest ability to “reach” forward (shorter stride), due to the lay of her shoulder blade, which is a little more vertical than I'd like it to be.  There are other structural or pathologic causes of shortened strides. It may take a few tries to get the spacing correct. For dogs with longer backs compared to their legs (I call them rectangular dogs 😄, I use the measurement of the length of the dog's back to determine the pole to pole distance and adjust as needed.  The dog should land its stride approximately in the middle between poles.  It is extremely valuable to record the first few sessions in slow motion, as it can be difficult to assess the stride and proper setup by simply watching while you are next to your dog.

Ideally, the number of poles should be 8 or 10, but initially you can start with less to teach them the exercise (always even number).  Sometimes dogs will try to jump them, but they will quickly figure out which movement gets rewarded and which doesn't. I like to have the dog wrap a  cone at the end of each rep, which keeps a fluid motion and sets them up in a straight line to enter the Cavaletti.  While performing the Cavaletti, the dog should not look at the owner, which causes weight shifting to one side and will interfere with a proper gait.  During the learning phase, a feed bowl works well to keep the dog driving in a straight line as a treat is thrown into the bowl after each turn (or have them drive to a mat or an automatic target treat dispenser). 

The pole height is generally not set any higher than hock height.  Opt for a lower height, especially if after video review, you feel that your dog is not extending as much as you think he should.  If the poles are higher than hock height, the shoulders and elbows, as well as stifles and hips, have to flex more, which can also be beneficial for strengthening the front and rear assembly, however, it is not recommended to perform Cavaletti in this manner on a regular basis, because it would promote a “hackney” type gait.  

There are many Cavaletti sets available for purchase, but I found that you can easily make your own using PVC pipes.  I had some leftover PVC from agility jumps, so I built four additional poles, since the set I have only came with six poles. These are the connectors and sliding jump cups I use. For small dogs, the poles can be placed on the ground.

In the video below I wanted to demonstrate the difference between higher than hock height vs. lower than hock height Cavaletti performance.  You can see that Rosi has to flex her elbows/shoulder and stifle/hip quite a bit more when navigating the higher poles.  Additionally, her trunk sways from side to side, which may cause strain to her spine.  If the goal is increased range of motion of front and rear limb joints, it is recommended to set up Cavaletti, so the dog is required to high step WALK through them.  This setup involves spacing the poles closer together for a slow, controlled and safe movement with the same strengthening benefit.  I will post a demo video of this exercise soon.

Happy Cavaletti! 🐕🐕🐕

As promised, here is Rosi high step walking. This exercise is geared towards improving range of motion in front (shoulder/elbow flexion) and rear limbs (hip/stifle flexion) and improved proprioception. The dog has to actively think where to place feet/legs. Older dogs can benefit from this exercise as it is low impact, but strengthening, and it helps with joint lubrication. The movement also promotes mental stimulation. This exercise does not help with lengthening of the stride and care should be taken that dogs are introduced slowly to prevent them from attempting to jump or trot through it.